Perhaps you have never been to this place. In fact, unless you are a sailor crossing the Pacific you most likely have never heard of the Marquesas Islands which sit quietly way over on the right side of the map thousands of miles from just about anywhere. There is no oil here, no gold, no beach resorts. In short, the modern world has taken very little notice of this string of stunningly beautiful islands that arose from the deep blue sea in a series of cataclysmic volcanic eruptions a long while ago.

Spanish explorer Mendaña was the first European to visit the islands in 1595 and named them after his boss, (always a shrewd move) the viceroy of Peru. At that time, it is estimated the islands supported a thriving population of around 100,000. Unfortunately, the Marquesas suffered more than most

We left Seattle by sea and we arrived in French Polynesia. In fact, we are now anchored in a beautiful atoll in the deserted Tuamotus as I write this. Looking out the porthole my gaze drifts across the clear blue water lapping at the white coral sand beach to the tall coconut trees gently swaying in the warm breeze on this uninhabited tropical island. There was a leaving and there was an arriving and a lot happened between those two points in the arc of time. Sailing to a faraway land is a romantic thing to do but it is not just for the wonderful destinations we do these things but also for the journey that happens to you in the middle. (At least for me this is the case. Ariel, on the other hand, hates “the journey in the middle”

“If your plan is for one year plant rice. If your plan is for ten years plant trees. If your plan is for one hundred years educate children.” – Confucius

How does one feel standing on the cusp of adventure? Is it as exhilarating as the adventure itself or perhaps more so? We have had a plan, not a dream but a plan that we have worked toward pretty unceasingly for the last ten years.

Ten years ago Ariel and I didn’t even have children but we began planning for this moment: to take our family to the South Pacific on a sailboat. I know good people who have ambition to be a successful, teacher, doctor or lawyer (even). Our ambition is different and certainly we cannot be accused of being overly career-oriented. I also

Last summer we had the keys to the kingdom and wisely spent our time exploring Alaska by sail. This summer we nurtured the somewhat lesser ambitions of enjoying the Canadian Haida Gwaii Archipelago (Queen Charlottes) but fate suddenly intervened with its customary rude slap to the face: I was unable to get the time off work. It is situations like this when one finds gainful employment an intrusion.

Work, that four-letter word

I had bought and read every book written on the history (some) and sailing (not much) of Haida Gwaii. Instead of two months free as previously planned we managed to eke out just two weeks away aboard. This necessitated a drastic cut to our plans and we decided to head for Barkley Sound on the wild west coast of Vancouver Island.

I had